In the two years Ricardo Tisci's been at the helm of the Burberry empire, I’ve watched (slack-jawed), as the heavyweight designer changed the course of this iconic British brand. With a new, youthful point of view, Tisci started a dual journey - one that’s a transformation to the future as well as a reclamation of the past.
His AW20 collection, debuted at London Fashion Week, is but one more step in this journey.
In ‘Memories’, Tisci takes a more personal approach - using bold silhouettes, sharp tailoring and new takes on old classics - to reflect back on his memories and experiences in London that have informed him as a designer.
And reflect he did, quite literally.
Set in the imposing Olympia National with a raised-mirror runway, the new faces of Burberry cum darlings of the Instagram generation stomped and served contemporary looks, weaved with elegant nostalgia.
Kendall Jenner, Joan Smalls, Bella & Gigi Hadid all showed off the brand’s polished, youthful edge. Trenchcoats, oversized sportswear, sparkling cocktail gowns and a new imagining of the trainer where all unveiled on the runway. Underpined with that slick, contemporary finish that has come to define Tisci’s signature at Burberry.
Personally, what I found most intriguing was the brand’s newfound delight in play with its signature codes & heritage. The classic Burberry check was reincarnated in paneled coats, cigarette trousers and even nail art. Royalty was also flirted with. Blazers cut in the Prince Of Wales check and jodphurs as abstract takes on the Queen’s best Balmoral looks all added to the show’s youthful stride along this juxtaposition between the past and future.
Look after look, what shown through most was a sense of confidence - and why not? It makes perfect sense. Confidence comes from a self assuredness in one’s self - a celebration of one’s past, paired with clear vision of the path ahead.
And this is perfectly eloquent of Burberry’s journey with Tisci.
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